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One of the New Eden gardeners introduced us to this cool website. On growveg.com you can plan your garden, get reminders of when to plants your different veggies, good gardening tips and more. Click here to get more info.
Online Garden Planning Tool

POSTPONED: Tonight’s New Eden Potluck Garden Party

POSTPONED

Tonight’s New Eden Potluck Garden Party
has been postponed to September due to the
unpredictable weather forecast for this afternoon.
Stay tuned for more details…
We look forward to seeing you then!

Saturday, July 28th ~ 5:30pm – 7:30pm

TONIGHT: Quick Pickles Workshop ~ June 27 7:00pm to 9:00pm

Quick Pickles ~ June 27, 7:00pm to 9:00pm: Chuck Shultz will make quick pickles out of an array of vegetables (no canning needed). Participants to are invited to take some home! To register for tonight’s class, please contact 978 465 5597.

Strawberry Jammin’ Workshop ~ Wednesday, May 30

Strawberry Jammin’ Workshop with Chuck Schultz

Have you ever wanted to learn how to make Strawberry Jam? Here’s your chance…join Chuck Schultz on Wednesday, May 30, from 7:00pm to 9:00pm as he demonstrates how to prepare and can strawberries.

Please contact Edwina to pre-register for this workshop. Suggestion donation is $25.00. Proceeds from the Workshops will support the Church’s missions and programs.

The class will be held in the kitchen at First Parish Church of Newbury, located at 20 High Road, Newbury, MA.

Check out the complete workshop offerings.

New Eden Organic Cooking & Canning Workshops ~ Starting Wednesday, May 23, 2012


Gardeners and consumers interested in learning to cook and preserve locally grown produce simply and deliciously will want to attend these Organic Cooking and Canning Workshops. New Eden Collaborative of First Parish Church of Newbury welcomes local green thumbs and culinary aficionados, Kim Goodhue and Chuck Schultz to lead a series of cooking and canning workshops.

They will demonstrate various ways to cook and preserve native vegetables and fruits, including tasting, discussion, participation, and samples to bring home.

View the Workshop Schedule and registration information.

Workshops will be held in the kitchen at First Parish Church of Newbury, 20 High Road Newbury, MA 01951.

Compost Tea ~ the super material for organic gardening ~ Saturday, June 4, 10AM-Noon

Organic landscaper, Javier Gil, will teach the fundamentals of compost, soil microbiology, and why compost tea is the hottest new trend in gardening.  Compost tea is used to promote beneficial bacteria, add nutrients to the soil, suppress disease and fungi, and increase overall health in plants.  He will demonstrate how to make your own compost tea at home with a few simple supplies.

Fee: $16 per person with online registration; $18 the day of the event

Bees…bees…and other beneficial garden insect ~ Register for this Saturday’s workshop

Join workshop leader, Charlotte Dion, for this Saturday’s (May 28) workshop Creating Habitat for Pollinators and other Beneficial Insects ~ Saturday, May 28, from 10am to Noon.

Learn how to provide food and habitat for insects that are beneficial to your garden through a choice of delightful plants.  Ways to integrate them into your garden and kitchen will be taught.  This will be a hands-on experience, enabling you to create a simple Mason Bee house to take home with seeds and/or small plants to get you started at home.

Time to Start Those Indoor Seedlings

As temperatures dip tonight to fifteen degrees its a pleasure to look at all my little seedlings waiting patiently for last week’s

Pressing seed blocker into moistened seed starting mix.

tease of balmy weather to be more consistent.  Different vegetables thrive under different growing conditions. Most members of the cabbage (Brassicaceae) family are cool weather crops and need to be multi-leaved young plants when they are set out in mid April. Broccoli and Cabbage should be started indoor as early as 12 weeks before our average last frost date of May 15 so they have enough time to come to maturity before the hot weather arrives and they become toast.  Many of the veggie members of the Nightshade  or Tobacco family (Solanaceae) such as peppers, eggplants and tomatoes are tender, warm weather vegetables that require a longer growing season than our New England climate can provide. Time  is running out for starting pepper and eggplant seedlings as require a 9 week head start when they are planted around Memorial Day. The time for planting tomato seeds is around April 1.

Putting pressure on the seed block compresses the soil into 2" square soil cubes.

This year at New Eden, we invested in a couple of soil blockers to make our own dirt seed blocks. I used some left over seed starting mix and they held together quite well until I left a few out in last weeks deluge .

Charlotte Dion, our Permaculture expert and all around garden mentor, recommends Eliot Coleman’s ( 4 Season Gardening) seed starting mix:

Mix together

2 10-quart buckets of sustainable peat or choir, 1/2 cup lime, and 2 cups of azomite (mineral rich, volcanic ash).

Add

2 10-quart buckets  of sand, 2 more buckets of peat or choir, 1 cup of phosphate, 1 cup of greensand, 1 cup of bloodsandmeal and 1 more cup of azomite.

Mix well and add

My first soil block. See her little dimple for placing the seed? Isn't she cute?

1 10-quart bucket of compost and 1 bucket of soil and mix again. Add water until soggy and start making blocks.

This sounds like an amazing  formula for uber seedlings. I’m going to try this next year.

While the brassicas like cooler temperatures to  germinate like the 50’s and 60’s. Peppers and Eggplants like it warm into the higher 70’s and 80’s. To get the warmer tempatures I put my nightshades by the furnace and cover them in a plastic bag so they do not dry out. Keeping seeds in plastic till they sprout is one way to make sure they stay evenly moist. Make sure you look at them daily as seeds will sprout more quickly in room tempatures and you don’t want to” keep them in the dark” once they sprout.

After the seeds have sprouted, it is best to water your seedling from below so as not to drown your tender seedlings  to help avert the dreaded “damping off” fungus. Make sure that your seedlings get enough sunlight or at least 14 hours exposure via gro-lite or florescent lights at just a 6 inches above the plants to keep your seedlings from getting leggy.

To Till or Not to Till Revisited

Spring has arrived and with it the task of soil preparation for planting. If you have an established plot this could be as simple as sprinkling compost and minerals to rake in. If you’re new it will require a bit more work.

There’s lots of lively debate over the various methods used by both large and small growers. I hope my brief comparison of some of these methods will be helpful to you.

Plowing: When New Eden was first established the former meadow was turned under with a plow. This was appropriate initially to break up thick sod and compacted soil in a large area. It’s not necessary or desirable to plow again now that paths and garden plots are in place and the sod has been subdued.

Cons: Plowing damages soil structure and beneficial organisms that will not recover with repeated use. Topsoil is more susceptible to erosion with deep furrows. This technique uses petroleum fuels that release toxins into the air and surrounding soil. It also requires expensive equipment.

Double digging is promoted by Bio-Intensive growers as a means of creating deep, rich soil with human power rather than petroleum. It requires hand digging to a depth of 2 feet with the sub soil kept separate from the topsoil. Usually done in a raised bed which reduces or eliminates soil erosion. This is a great way to start a new bed in an area with compacted soil, large rocks, sod and weeds. It allows easy incorporation of organic matter and mineral supplements into the soil.

Cons:Soil structure is damaged along with beneficial organisms and mycelium, but they will recover and the double dig is only done once. It is a lot of work for those of us with older spines. Don’t try to double dig near trees or shrubs or you will lose the battle to the woody roots.

Broad fork also know as U - bar

Sheet Mulching is an ancient technique that requires no digging except to remove large rocks and persistent weeds such as witch grass. With this method raw compost, manure, seaweed etc is spread on the soil then covered with alternating layers of cardboard and more compostables along with mineral amendments.
This method works well in areas near tree and shrub roots.

Cons: It will take a few months for sheet mulched beds to get to optimal performance. Requires a lot of organic matter and carbon matter to make the initial beds.

Rototiller: Easy and fast way to chomp up a bit of soil.

Cons: Repeated use of a rototiller can create an impermeable hard pan at the level where the tines burnish the subsoil. This sort of tillage mixes subsoil into topsoil to the detriment of both . Petroleum fueled tillers don’t have an emissions standard so we won’t know what they might deposit on the garden beds. I would suggest a kinder and gentler tool for those with established plots…

The broadfork! Which has been promoted by such luminaries as Eliot Coleman and John Jeavons. This is a great human powered tool that we can all use to aerate and loosen the soil without doing damage to our micro system allies. It’s also easier to wield than other implements for those who might not want to dig too deep.

That’s enough for now except to wish you all happy digging!

Brussels Sprouts: A Tale of Woe and a Recipe for Redemption

Brussels sprouts exposed! Trauma in my Winter garden

In the rush to salvage my last root vegetables and fall greens early last December before the first snow storm, I was filled with the sorrow over the end of my garden for the year. I had found solace in the belief ( thanks to a snippet in a gardening book)  that I could leave my Brussels sprouts out in the garden and just pop them off frozen and cook them up. This worked well for my Christmas diner. The Brussels sprouts revived and were quite tasty. Now we that we had our first temporary thaw of 40 degrees I went to the garden to harvest another round of my precious little cabbage balls. To my horror, the Brussels sprouts had mostly gone brown from the icy winds and my garden stunk of fetid cabbage. It appears that Brussels sprouts do not survive the cryogenic freezing process. In triage mode, I amputated what little I thought was still viable with my trusty kitchen knife.

Back in the kitchen I was able to retrieve some passable sprouts at the top of my plants. My favorite recipe was still a success for this garden season’s last hurrah.

This is one of my most requested recipes. I modified this from one of those foodie websites. Alas I can’t remember which one to give credit too.

Brussesl Sprouts Supreme

1 1/2 lbs Brussels sprouts                    3 TB olive oil

a pinch of salt                                    1 1/4 cup vegetable stock

4 TB brown sugar

3 TB apple cider vinegar                      Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat olive oil is heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, add Brussels sprouts and sprinkle with salt. Saute and stir for about 5 – 10 minutes until the sprouts are slightly browned. Add 3/4 cup of vegetable stock and bring to boil. Lower the heat and simmer, until the Brussels sprouts are tender much of the stock is cooked away, about 10 minutes. Remove the lid and add the remaining stock, brown sugar and the apple cider vinegar. Cook at medium heat stirring occasionally until the liquid is reduced to a syrup. Serve warm or hot.

New Eden Pest and Pestilence Control

I squished some stunningly beautiful, yet voracious, cabbage caterpillars today.  Nothing brings out the homicidal tendencies of a normally mild mannered gardener than seeing one of your beloved crops under siege.  Now that potato beetles, grubs, and cut worms are laying waste to some veggies,  gardeners have been asking me what they can use to smite these creatures of carnage. Below is an exerpt from our recently updated gardening guidelines on accepted sustainable pest and pestilence control.  As we are in an intimate garden community, a person’s gardening practices will directly influence the health of their neighbor’s garden. For this reason, these guidelines must be followed. So there will be a lot of weeding to prevent disease and pests and a lot squishing going around until we have established a good habitat for beneficial insects and birds. Insecticides and Fungicides:

We are an organic garden and want to stress that PREVENTION and VIGILANCE are the keys to keeping harmful insects/diseases from destroying crops.

Prevention includes:

Proper spacing of plants: While we all hate to thin our healthy little seedlings, crowded plants encourage insects, bacterial, viral and fungal infections.  If disease appears, we must remove diseased leaves, stems or whole plant if necessary to prevent spread.  DO NOT PUT THEESE DISEASED PLANTS ON THE COMPOST PILE. They have potential to infect the compost and spread the disease. Take them out of the garden and dispose of them by bagging them up as trash.

Frequent (preferably daily) inspection of plants for insects and their eggs:

Don’t forget the underside of the leaves where many lurk!—is the best way to keep it under control.  Hand picking in a small garden is not too onerous.

Careful Watering: It is preferable to water as early as possible so leaves don’t stay wet overnight, encouraging the fungal diseases so prevalent in this climate.

Row Covers are an excellent option for protecting vulnerable plants until the flowering stage and also protects from  mild frost.

WEED, WEED, WEED: To minimize disease and pests it is essential to keep weeds under control in your garden and the garden paths. Please keep your plot clean and free of debris.

If, in spite of your best efforts you have an infestation you may use:

Insecticidal soap, including diluted dish detergent and “Natural” controls such as garlic spray or baking soda are acceptable and safe.

NEEM although considered organic is prohibited in the garden due to its potential harm to bees and other beneficial insects.

Bacillus Thurengensis may be used for squash borer or cabbage worm if necessary.

Copper Sulfate or “Bordeaux mixture” may be used for fungal disease which we are likely to get on our tomatoes.  It is best to catch it early as it spreads and will do much damage, seriously decreasing our yields.

No other substances are to be used in the garden.  Well-tended, healthy plants are more resistant to disease so again, a little TLC is the best medicine.

Happy gardening!
Erin